A day of Grace

We started our Sunday and day of our major mission with a quiet walk across town in the early morning, our destination, Sun Studios. We arrived for the first tour of the day and had an exhilarating walk through an historical piece of musical heaven. Our guide was such an animated and exhuberant talent of replicating the moments that had gone down in those corridors for decades. The building vibrated with soul and presence and still such aliveness of current talents that continue to come and spin tunes in this magical palace. It was our beginning to an historical delve into Memphis history.



Next stop, Graceland. All I can say is that it was a far more peaceful and tranquil place than I could have imagined. Not as grand a specticle, nor as over the top in many ways. For the time that Elvis lived there, I think it was a modest home, compared to the L.A. mansions of the Hollywood elite. Nevertheless, the tour, the sights, are well laid out and a tribute to someone of great talent, and someone who I believe was a truly compassionate and giving person. Fame takes it's toll, but his family has preserved his place, and he truly is running through the veins of the city of Memphis. I am so thankful to have had this opportunity to go exploring in such a fun, vibrant and friendly place. Elvis lives!

touristing

Ahhh, a beautiful fall day beside the Mississippi. What to do but wander the streets of this unknown city, shop, eat and take it all in. The temperature couldn't have been better, hovering around 70 in the daytime and 50s in the evening. Saturday was our shopping and tourist day and our first full day to indulge on what good eats Memphis had to offer. Thanks to our Scottish friends, we had some tips they had collected from some locals to find some of the best the town had to offer.








After our ramblings on Beale Street, we headed to The Flying Fish, home of all wayward Billy Bass castaways. Saturday then became Fry-Day. Fried catfish, hushpuppies, okra, shrimp, oysters...am I forgetting anything? Oh, I also had a few oysters on the half, so we could truly say we had six of one and half dozen of the other. Really. We sat at the window seats looking out on to the street and had ourselves a feast. All was very well cooked. Not too sleazy greazy and just what we'd been looking for. Awesome!




After the feast, we rambled back to the hotel and deposited our shopping treasures, then went back to our Bardog family for some happy hours before our next exploratory venture. Late afternoon we walked north on the Main Street trolley line. Oddly, we never hopped on the trolley, it always seemed to be going the other way. It was fine with us to walk and take in the city sights in such a fine fall climate. We ventured into the Pinch District, which is known for being an art center of the town. Viewing sculpture, galleries and performing arts venues along the way. We made a visit to Westy's for some refreshment and bantering over where to go for dinner.





We strolled back to our room for a bit of college football news and went over our lists of suggested places. We finally opted to go for Gus Fried Chicken, another place to walk to in the cool of the evening. Oh, man, you wouldn't believe the fried chicken! It was a modest and unassuming joint, but filled with folks who obviously enjoyed the fried chicken. Of course we got that with sides of fried green tomatoes and friend dill pickles.



All of this to complete our 'Fry Day'. Then in search of the 'tums'! Oh, what a day!

Memphis sights

It was a very romantic weekend in the way that you fall in love with a place and its inhabitants from the present tense to its past. In such a beautiful and inviting season, the sun, the attitude, the vibe that came from strolling along streets that have seen decades of history in music and trade. The city which felt Southern in nature, but larger than I had imagined and livelier and friendlier than I'd dreamed.




Historical architecture towered above in color and texture and dimension as much as the people walking the streets. Music exuded from the crevices, around corners, rolling out into the streets with a spirit that could catch you up and wrap itself around you and squeeze you until you smiled. Music was in the air.



Shopping at Lansky's clothier at the Peabody. Watching the ducks paddle in the fountain, then on to souvenir shops of postcards and tourist bling on Beale Street with some actual well-defined folk-art mixed in. People gazing and PBRs at the Rum Boogie Cafe and a sparky bartender named Sindy from England. A gathering of artists and musicians filled the park off of Beale Street. It was a lively and happy mix of colors and creations and jumping and joyful sounds. What a day and what a place to be.

Come fly with me, come fly come fly away

Up Up and Away...my man and I had a fantastic getaway thanks to some very special friends and family. A quick drive to Charlotte to catch a straight flight to Blues City. While strolling through the airport, I stopped in the newsstand to pick out my in flight reading 'zine. I heard Vic over my shoulder while I was still perusing my choices, "This is it, Vanity Fair, Johnny Depp is on the cover. You know you want it." nuf said.



We arrived on the sunny banks of the Mississippi around 4 pm, checked in to our cozy room and deposited our belongings. Then we ventured out to see the neighborhood. The lobby doors opened directly out to the trolley line and a park across the way.



As we strolled down a couple of blocks, I looked around the corner to see a neon sign that said 'Bardog'. It was calling our names. We ventured in and discovered our first 'neighborhood' bar and doorway to meeting some really fun people. Not to mention their bar food was excellent. No sooner had we settled in, than three fine gentlemen from Scotland came along and we instantly became friends.





After a jolly old time with them, we had a short rest and went in search of our first Barbecue feast. Our choice of the evening was Charlie Vergo's Rendezvous. The Best dry rub ribs you can fathom, spicy beans and slaw and a pitcher of Michelob. Geez Louise!

We took an after dinner stroll to Beale Street but didn't venture in to the depths of neon profusion and blaring blues. Maybe another night. A nightcap back at the Bardog and rest for day 2.

At my Brother's House

Brother's shed

As August blazed to an end, the family gathered at brother's house for the second anniversary of the birth of our little man, Charlie. It was a sultry summer afternoon on the side porch of the cavernous yet comfy garage filled with artifacts from various and sundry times and collections. Burgers and beans and birthday cake. An audience of a dozen watching the maestro in action, the toddler of two, the center of our universe for this day. We wondered over how our only one missing, Sarah, was faring in her new cozy nest in the borough of Brooklyn, the eye of Irene hovering over, having already wreaked havoc on so many.

The calendar page turns and the days of September bring gentle relief to the long hot summer we've endured. Tropical storms, turbulent up the seaboard, lives and homes upturned, Irene roared all the way to the uplands of Northern New England, relentless to reside over the oceanic waters and ripping apart riverside towns that had no idea what was coming. Even my best loved ones in Vermont had bridges torn apart and repairs to attend to in the aftermath.

A welcomed holiday weekend and gathering with good friends for a pleasant day on the waters of Jocassee. Picnic lunch, balmy breezes, chit-chat and cool dips in the lake, it was so much fun to get away for a day. Dinner and a movie with family, New Orleans style, Jambalaya. Painting projects and chores to complete some of my to-do lists, but never all.



Little GTO

Photos by Thomas Hammond

feasting

'As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.'

Ernest Hemingway 'A Movable Feast'

I am beginning to be happy and to make plans

A feast of nature and the sea is one of the most cleansing and enlivening of epicurean delight, as it usually is a true hands-on experience, removing the shells, or even gathering from the sea. I vividly remember going clam digging as a small child in the Albemarle Sound on the Outer Banks. Wading into the water and scooping up sand laden with clamshells. It was a sport like none other I had experienced at that early age. When we brought them back to the house and my cousin prepared them, they were far too strange and exotic for my limited palate of those days. I was more intoxicated having had the salt water lapping over my knees and elbows and pluff sand underneath my fingernails, the sun blazing on my towhead and bronzing my face and limbs.

These days, I’m happy to say my tastes have changed and I could devour all the shellfish you could pile onto a platter. In answer to that question, what would you have for you last meal? I’d say a plate of oysters on the half shell, with some lemon, hot sauce and horseradish. That is a feast of the gods.

J D water boogie

Summer afternoon. Summer afternoon.
The two most beautiful words in the English language.
- Henry James